![]() I should say that, in the abstract, superlatives don’t do much for me. Instead of grief, you will feel what a person feels when encountering an inarguably unique corner of the planet-somehow both diminished and emboldened, both lost and found. Then you’ll climb down the mountain, get in a Land Cruiser, and speed toward the receding horizon at 70 miles an hour. You can climb it-a vigorous climb, given that it is more than 17,000 feet above sea level-and if you reach the top on a clear morning and turn southward, you will need a few minutes to take in the enormity of it: Salar de Uyuni, the largest salt flat in the world. But I canconfirm that Tunupa is the name of a dormant volcano in southwestern Bolivia. That much is local legend and thus unverifiable, at least by me. Tunupa, paralyzed by grief, became a mountain overlooking the salty expanse. Her baby was stillborn, Tunupa cried innumerable tears, and her tears mixed with the breast milk that her baby would never drink and together they formed a white lake. ![]() ![]() One of them, a beautiful goddess named Tunupa, became pregnant. In the time before our grandparents’ grandparents were born, the gods roamed the surface of the earth, and they were so tall that their heads reached the clouds.
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